Vancouver area and Vancouver Island September 20th - October 3rd 2024
A return trip to this exciting area but our first since 2018 and there had been a lot of changes mainly in development and the numbers of people and traffic levels; weather was as usual variable but generally quite cool with three wet days and our whale watching trip was beset by fog necessitating a long journey to find some whales in the sun.
I took the Canon R62 and the RF 100-500 lens with the 1.4 extender but in practice seldom used the extender as the light was often poor and in most cases the birds tame.
Friday 20th we travelled to Cheshire on the 19th for our early afternoon flight to Rejkavik, a bit late but the connection to our Vancouver flight was seamless and we were on the way to Canada by early evening. The staff were excellent and a good flight saw us passing over the south end of Greenland and Baffin Island where a few iphone shots of the scenery were taken through the window - note to self buy a better iphone with a better camera. Flight arrives at Vancouver 17:45 and get through customs and baggage reclaim quickly picking up our pre-booked car from Hertz, again a good experience. We booked a medium SUV but ended up with a seemingly rather large GMC SUV. The 11 year old sat nav amazingly works and we drive 15 minutes to a very strange B&B in Richmond taking a late walk along the Fraser river where gulls, Song Sparrows and a flock of 10 squawking Caspian Terns were seen before darkness at 19:20.
September 21st: a Saturday
As usual after a westward flight we were wide awake by 01:00 and sunrise was not until 07:10 - breakfast at the B&B was non existent so we had to find a Tim Horton’s for a quick snack before heading north through Metro Vancouver to Stanley Park. Even at 07:30 on a Saturday the traffic was heavy seemingly a big change since out last visit in 2018 but arrival at the park on what was forecast to be a sunny day saw us donning raincoats in an un advertised shower. Birds were rather few and far between but included a good display by three Plieated Woodpeckers hammering a tree to bits above our heads, several Wood Ducks on the ponds with a few Green-winged Teal, Red breasted Nuthatch calling, Spotted Towhees, Song Sparrows , Brown Creeper, Ruby crowned Kinglets, Anna’s Hummingbirds and on the offshore water the usual Glaucous-winged Gulls, Red necked Grebes and Brandt’s Cormorants. As the day warmed up the number of joggers, cyclists, dog walkers and general tourists started to have a negative impact and we left to take our chances further south. Heading for the Boundary Bay Centennial Park we stopped off at White Spot in Tsawwassen for lunch then did a quick supermarket shop before arriving at the park. Hot and sunny Saturday meant a lot of people and hard birding with heat haze of all things but some nice birds seen: Great Blue Heron 30+, big duck flocks included 2000+ American Wigeon, 100’s of Pintail, Shoveler, Green winged Teal and 160 Cackling Geese with a few larger Canada Geese (I give up on them but the smaller birds have a much more melodic call compared with the ruffian large birds we are used to) : Yellow-rumped Warblers were a mix of Myrtle and Audubon’s Warblers 10+, Golden crowned Sparrow 5, White crowned Sparrow 30+, Cedar Waxwing 30+, Northern Flicker 4+, Savannah Sparrow 20+, Ring billed Gull 40+, 10 Killdeer an American Avocet, a flock of 12 Pectoral Sandpipers and 10 Greater Yellowlegs.
Sunday 22nd
The plan for the day was to visit the George Reifel reserve in the morning before getting the 17:00 ferry from Tsawwassen to Victoria on Vancouver Island where we had accommodation booked for five nights. The weather forecast was not great with rain from late morning then persisting all day and it started out quite dull but with brightness to the East. The reserve does not open until 09:00 so armed with a couple of bananas and croissants for breakfast we had a walk along the Fraser river bank west of Ladner a site described in the very useful Bird finding Guide to BC that I picked up on a previous visit to the Rockies. The vegetation on the bank was buzzing with sparrows mainly Savannah 50+, Song, White-crowned, Golden-crowned and Lincoln’s. Three Northern Harriers were distant and passing geese included 50+ Cackling Geese and 50+ Snow Geese with two Sandhill Cranes dropping into the fields and a Caspian Tern over the Fraser River and Anna’s Hummingbird feeding on the flowers while Red-winged Blackbirds and the odd Collared Dove were in the fields.
The ferry crossing was marked by increasing rain and poor visibility but a pod of six orcas were logged along with two Slavonian / Horned Grebes and 30+ Brandt’s Cormorants - by the time we docked the rain had cleared and it turned into a sunny and warm afternoon to our surprise. The drive to our B&B only took about 30 minutes and after dropping our bags we searched for Beaver Lake but I missed the turn and 10 miles later we were back were we started! Eventually found a parking spot and had a walk in the woodland, missed the parking lot by the lake! Not many birds just a few Golden-crowned Kinglets a calling Barred Owl, Turkey Vulture and some Wood Ducks and audible Tree Frogs of some sort. Back to Natasha’s B&B one of the best B&B’s ever and very reasonably priced; highly recommended; only 30 minutes or so from downtown Victoria and good birding spots nearby. Link here https://www.bbcanada.com/1982.html Meal at The Flame Grill just up the road good value.
Monday 23rd
For the five days that we stayed at Natasha’s we did an early walk, sunrise was not until 07:10, just across the road into a lovely area called Quick’s Bottom where a small marsh and scrub and mature trees provided some good early morning birding and some nice sunrises. I have found before in Canada in autumn that birds seem to be late getting going and it is often after sunrise before you start to see and hear passerines and that was the case this time with dull mornings meaning birds were even later getting up!
The morning and late afternoon were then spent around Beaver Lake with some long walks in the woodlands where birds were tricky and localised in mobile feeding flocks. Early afternoon we visited Butchart Gardens but the number of people was a bit off putting; A kettle of Turkey Vultures on the way there evaded close scrutiny as there was nowhere to pull off the road. Birds seen during the day included Golden-crowned and Ruby-crowned Kinglets, Brown Creepers, my first Black-throated Grey Warbler for several years that evaded the camera, Myrtle and Audubon’s Warblers, Orange-crowned Warbler, Warbling Vireo, Chestnut-backed Chickadees, a Merlin and Peregrine and on the Lake Belted Kingfisher, Wood Ducks, Pied-billed Grebe and a female Hooded Merganser. We again heard Tree Frogs of some sort but failed to see any though there were a few Paddle-tailed and Blue-eyed Darners.
Tuesday 24th
Early am Quick’s Bottom with a Reddish Fox Sparrow maybe not a full Red bird, 50+ Cedar Waxwings, Wilson’s Warbler, Orange-crowned Warbler, Audubon’s Warblers, Purple Finch, Bewick’s Wren, Marsh Wren, Pacific Wren plus the usual American Crows, Cackling Geese flocks over and American Robins. We had booked an Eagle Wings whale watching trip in the afternoon at 14:00 and the weather looked set fair with beautiful sunny skies and a calm sea BUT -nice and warm in Victoria where we had a walk down to the pier only to find thick FOG over the water - never mind a local told me it would be clear in two hours and you would be able to look across to the US! He lied — we set off on the boat as it got increasingly cold in the fog and sped off to locate Ollie the Sea Otter where there was a little less fog, then an hours motoring to the edge of the fog belt where we connected with four Humpbacks and some shearwaters that I initially thought were Sooties but were clearly Short-tailed Shearwaters a lifer for me; being a whale boat you don’t stop for birds but one did a nice fly by in beautiful light and others were seen fairly close to the boat with a small flock on the water albeit on the edge of the fog. At least 50 were seen on the trip and other birds included the usual Cormorant threesome, Pelagic, Brandt’s and Double-crested the plethora of Glaucous-winged type Gulls, Mew Gulls, California Gulls, just a few Heermann’s compared to previous trips, a lot of Guillemots or Common Mures if you will, at least 200-300, a fly by flock of 8 Red-necked Phalaropes, an adult Pomarine Skua that flew away and an Arctic that did likewise and on land Steller and California Sea Lions and Pacific Harbour Seals with a few Black Oystercatchers. The fog enveloped us partially as we returned to the sea lion colony and it was very cold but amazing clouds and skies as we returned completed what was all in all another great trip and Eagle Wings are well recommended as the boats are big and allow you to move about not like the strapped in ribs that several companies operate. https://www.eaglewingtours.com/
Wednesday 25th
Early am Quick’s bottom where just a few Cedar Waxwings, American Robins and Audubon’s Warblers but rain soon set in - my plan was a raptor migration watch at East Sooke but the weather gods were not in favour; headed first for Esquimalt Lagoon that had produced some good birds on a 2018 trip but even in the weather people were seemingly walking everywhere and only the most adaptable birds were present. At the lagoon were 30+ Black Oystercatchers, three Hooded Mergansers, 50+ Savannah Sparrows all along the shore, two White-crowned Sparrows, 40 Brewer’s Blackbirds, a few Red-winged Blackbirds, 200+_ California Gulls, 10 Mew Gulls, the usual Glaucous-winged menagerie and a Belted Kingfisher. A walk around the coast at Aylard farm, East Sooke was in wet weather with some drier spells. About 20 Turkey Vultures got up it was clearly not good for raptor migration. In the trees and scrub Chestnut-backed Chickadees, Golden-crowned Kinglets, an Oregon Junco with a Cooper’s Hawk and a Band-tailed Pigeon flying over and offshore a vast feeding frenzy of gulls revealed at least three Humpbacks and a single tern that was too far to identify but probably a Forster’s. With more rain setting in it was time for lunch at My Chosen Cafe at Metchosin but the afternoon was pretty much a wash out with more heavy rain in spite of a better forecast. By 17:00 the rain appeared to clear and there were odd sunny spells but more wind. A return to Esquimalt Lagoon provided a few bonus birds in the form of three juvenile Western Sandpipers, a juvenile Long-billed Dowitcher the only Dunlin of the trip!, seven Killdeer, 40+ American Wigeon and Double crested Cormorants. The blast of late sun allowed a few decent images before rain returned and we set off back to our B&B with a few Turkey Vultures rising from the woods en route.
Thursday 26th
The forecast was not too bad so decided to head back to East Sooke in the hope of some raptors - Early am Quick’s bottom with a beautiful sunrise and four Sooty Fox Sparrows plus 40+ Cedar Waxwings, Golden-crowned Sparrow, Lincoln’s Sparrow, Orange-crowned Warbler and three singing Marsh Wrens. Driving straight to the meadows at Aylard farm it was still fine but dull. At least 30 Turkey Vultures were drifting around but the only other raptor was an adult Peregrine. The bushes and trees revealed two Sooty Fox Sparrows, 10+ Oregon Juncos, at least 20 Red Crossbills, Golden-crowned and Ruby-crowned Kinglets, Red-breasted Nuthatch. By lunch though the clouds were decidedly grey and it was spitting - time to save yourself and head to the cafe for some lunch. With rain still falling we drove west along the coast but missed the turn we wanted and went round in circles for a few miles before deciding to head back to the lagoon. Not wanting to just sit in the car we walked from one end of the lagoon to the other and got thoroughly soaked for the first time in the trip. Birds were few but an Osprey flew past and a Bald Eagle, a couple of Belted Kingfishers were fishing with six Hooded Mergansers, two Scaup, several Red-necked Grebes on the sea, White-crowned and Savannah Sparrows, three Killdeer a close Knot and a Heermann’s Gull in the increasing rain. Drove back to the B&B for an early finish to a bit of a squab day.
Friday 27th
Th emorning dawned bright and sunny but not much new at Quick’s Bottom though several Lincoln’s Sparrows were accommodating and a Sharp-shinned Hawk flashed through. The day was to be spent mainly driving up north to Oyster River where our next accommodation was booked at the Ocen View Resort as our usual cottage had disappeared from the listings and appeared to be for sale. The 3 hour drive I estimated would give us time to drive up to the Strathcona Alpine Meadows in what would hopefully still be a sunny afternoon as we would be passing on the northbound drive. Roadworks added 40 minutes to the trip but it was stil brightish when we drove up towards the Mount Washington Ski Area inteding on having something to eat at Captain Teds but in 5 years since our last visit it was gone and no eatereies were open only on weekends! The meadows were well populated by too many people but worst of all was the constant noise of construction as a ridiculaous amount of building work was extending the Ski Resort across the hillside. A once quite tasteful resort was becoming a home to mass tourism for the snow enthusiasts. Worse still was the almost total lack of birds in the woodlands; maybe we were just too late an evrything had left? A flock of 10 Canada Jays were following tourists around all suitably adorned with coloured leg parafanalia, a couple of Steller’s Jays and an Oregon Junco formed the remainder of a thin haul but the mood was lightened by a total of 160 Sandhill Cranes bugling southwards albeit at height and well away. Somewaht crest fallen we headed down and dropped our gear off at our accommodation before heading to the Campbell River spit expecting the usual plethora of birds but even here things had changed, Froma quiet seldom used area where shorebirds and Buff-bellied Pipits fed on the grass 5 years ago the area was liberally covered in people, children on bikes and dogs - the grass remained bird free. The car park did have a flock of Brewer;s Blackbirds and the odd Red-winged and offshore were a few Red-necked Grebes and a flock of 800 Bonaparte’s Gulls with the usual gang of California nd Glaucou-singed types but amazingly only one Bald Eagle. The undoubted highlight was a Pacific black Merlin chasing feral pigeons around the car park but its stay was quite brief and we never saw it again after this visit whereas in the past Merlin had been regular at this location. Evening meal at West Quay and back to the digs.
Saturday September 28th
Having found the Black Creek Diner, just 10 minutes down the road with breakfast from 06:30 that became our go to start to the day - we then went for a beach walk north of the Shelter Point but although the tide was well out to start with it was coming in and the sea ducks are only close at low water; this proved to be a problem throughout our stay and I had not appreciated in the past how spring tides can make or break photography in the area. After a pretty poor showing on the sea the previous evening things started to look up and although it was dull and cloudy with the threat of showers we picked up 200+ Surf Scoters along with five White-winged and three Black Scoters and the usual 50+ Harlequins and further offshore 30+ Pacific Loons and 10 Common Loons, five Red-necked and ten Slavonian Grebes , Brandt’s Cormorants, Goosanders and three Bald Eagles with five Black Turnstones, five Killdeer, 18 Black-bellied Plovers and a few Black Oystercatchers but generally it was a shorebird wash out. As the tide rose we headed back and into Campbell River for a coffee and cake at Fogg Dukkers where it was distinctly cool as opposed to the weather forecast of full sun. A trip to the Fish Hatchery produced two Black Bears, 40+ Glaucous-winged Gulls, 30 American Crows and a Belted Kingfisher but little else. A couple of visits to the spit and the shoreline at Campbell River afternoon and evening produced a single Rhinoceros Auklet, juvenile Marbled Murrelet, 2000 Bonaparte’s Gulls, 200 California Gulls, eight Thayer’s Gulls, 50+ Glaucous-winged Gulls, American Herring Gull, 30 Mew Gulls, Savannah, Golden-crowned and Lincoln’s Sparrows.
Sunday 29th
Sunny most of day; we set off for Mount Washington and got lost ending up down near Courtney then as we backtracked a flock of 120 Sandhill Cranes heading south to the west of the highway followed by three from the summit car park. On arrival at the Strathcona Meadows here is a frost on the ground, not good for odes, Being a sunny Sunday there are already lots of people and it gets worse through the morning in addition to which there are very few bird with a couple of Steller’s Jays and five Canada Jays a few Golden-crowned Kinglets, a flock of 40 Pine Siskins and a gathering of 60 Oregon Juncos near the car park. The abundance of people sends us down to Miracle Beach park but theer are people there too including lots on the beach so no close waterfowl. In the trees area Chestnut-backed Chickadees, Brown Creepers and Red-breasted Nuthatches and furteh roffshore at least 30 Pacific Loons, Common Loons, 30+ White-winged Scoter, Horned and Red-necked Grebes and the usual Harlequins. At least four Humpback Whales are visible offshore and a flock of eight juvenile Western Sandpipers do a fly-by with Paddle-tailed Darners photographed. At Oyster Point not many birds again but ten Western Sandpipers, an Osprey and offshore 30 White-winged Scoters and 30+ Pacific Loons.
September 30th
Start out at Miracle beach where Oregon Juncos, Ruby-crowned and Golden-crowned Kinglets, Red-breasted Nuthatch and a Yellow Warbler the only one of the trip. Dribve up to Campbell River and get the ferry across to Quadra island heading for Rebecca Spit wheer its a bit dull and damp but at least 30 Red-breasted Nuthatches with a lot of vocalising, Golden-crowned Kinglets, Ruby-crowned Kinglets, 10 Audubon’s Warblers, American Robins, 30 Oregon Juncos, 8 Spotted Towhee, 16 Savannah Sparrows, two Brown Creepers and on the water 10 Red-necked Grebes, 50 Harlequins and Horned Grebe. All the eateries seem to be closed, strange place Quadra, so we get the ferry back, flock of 6 Marbled Murrelets the only high, and have a nibble from Tim Hortons then work both sides of the spit.. western side has closed notice on the path but its not really! Totals of 20 Audubon’s Warblers, Cedar Waxwing, 30 American Robins, 15 Oregon Juncos, Orange-crowned Warbler, 10 Golden-crowned Sparrows including one in song, White-crowned Sparrows, Chestnut-backed Chickadees. Then on the water off the spit a flock of 40 White-fronted Geese flies west, 15 Killdeers south, Red-necked Grebes offshore with 20+ Mew Gulls and amongst the Bonaparte’s flocks I pick up a juvenile Sabine’s Gull and then two more an unexpected tick for my Canadian and ABA lists
October 1st
A wet start but soon clears to showers - pretty quiet day - at the spit the usual gulls and grebes offshore and a Marbled Murrelet but not close as usual. Miracle Beach again quiet with 40+ WHite-winged Scoters the highlight.
October 2nd
Set off from Ocean shore early to drive to Duke Point Nanaimo for the 10:15 ferry and arrive early only to find it is delayed by an hour due to technical problems. From the car park Bewick’s Wren, Chestnut-backed Chickadees, turkey Vulture and in the channel two Humpbacks and a Minke Whale. From the ferry a pod of 7 Orcas and 7 Humpbacks. Drive to Georges Reifel but it shuts at 16:00 so its a brief wander round in increasing hot and sunny weather. Highlights 400+ Long-billed Dowitchers, 10 Great Yellowlegs, Lesser Yellowlegs, 50 Green-winged Teal, 10 Pied-billed Grebes as skittish as ever, 8 Hooded Mergansers, Anna’s Hummingbirds, the Sandhill Crane family taking food at arms length!, two Northern Harriers distant, three Marsh Wren, 20 Audubonn’s Warblers, three Barn Swallows and an American Mink. Head down to Boundary Bay Centennial park for an hour before evening meal at White Spot and then drive to Monica’s for the night. At Boundary Bay 3000+ American Wigeon, 400+ Green-winged Teal, Pintail 100’s, Lesser Yellowlegs 5, Greater Yellowlegs, two American Coot, Northern Harrier, 9 Killdeer and the usual Savannah Sparrows.
October 3rd
Sunny misty start at Monica’s Delta Country Inn B&B - after. agreat breakfast drive to the end of 18th and walk the Boundary Bay dyke for three hours before returning the car to the airport for our afternoon flight back to Rejkjavik and hence Manchester, hour delay on baggage claim the suual Manchester airport rubbish, and home afternoon 4th. From the dyke 30+ Collared Doves, six Barn Swallows, 30 Audubon’s Warblers, Western meadowlark, Hundsonian Whimbrel, 30000+ wildfowl offshore, American Goldfinch, five Bald Eagles, Common Yellowthroat, 30+ Buff-bellied Pipits in flight, White-crowned Sparrows and two Merlins in cooperative hunt with a male Northern Harrier.