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Alberta and British Columbia May – June 2019

In May 2019 we visited southern Alberta and then travelled up into the Rockies around Canmore and west to Golden in British Colombia. the weather was very variable starting out at around 4C to 6C south of Calgary and rising to 31C around Golden just two weeks later. We hired a mid-sized SUV and did a total of 4664kms, 2915 miles, in the 13 days but distances are big in Canada. Below is a daily log and a selection of images from the trip.


May 19th

The BA flight to Calgary got off on time at 18:35 and we arrived Calgary at 20:25 on time and got bags and through the terminal with no queues and straight to the Budget desk where again there was no queue but the operative decided to tell me I had no insurance even though it was cleary shown on my Holiday Autos voucher. I was then ripped off for $57 for taking the car into BC for three days and an additional $61 that I agreed to pay for a tank of gas as there is no station near the airport, apparently and we did fail to find one on our last visit and got charged £38 to top up that vehicle. Vehicle was a Chevy Equinox SUV which proved to be a good vehicle if a little heavy on fuel.

By 21:35 we were out of the terminal but our TomTom was having a dizzy fit and we missed the first turn but soon reoriented and headed south down Deerfoot Trail to our booked accommodation at the Lakeview Inns & Suites – Okotoks, about an hour south of Calgary. Booked in and pleased to hear that breakfast was served from 05:00.

May 20th

Typically we were wide awake at 04:30 in spite of having very little sleep. Breakfast was a bit mediocre but filled the gap and by 06:00 we were on the road on the 20-minute drive to Frank Lake a superb wetland in the prairies east of High River. The first bird was a Starling but several flocks of Franklin’s Gulls on the road were more exciting and the first Swainson’s Hawks perched on roadside posts. By the turn into Frank Lake a pair of Swainson’s Hawks were mating on the roadside, the female a dark morph bird was the only bird of this morph seen all trip. It was sunny but distinctly cool with a temperature of 3C and gloves needed. From mid-morning temperatures rose to 11C with increasing cloud cover and a freshening wind.

Frank Lake produced its usual array of excellent wildfowl and associated marshland birds with a constant cacophony of Red-winged and Yellow-headed Blackbird song. Many photos were taken.

The list below gives a taste of what the site had on offer:  Franklin’s Gull 300+, California Gull 80+, Forester’s Tern 10, American Black Tern 5, Western Grebe 5, Black necked Grebe 50+, Redhead 4+, Canvasback 8, Lesser Scaup, Blue winged Teal 30+, Cinnamon Teal 20+, Sora whinnying, Wilson’s Phalarope 3, Least Sandpiper fly by, White faced Ibis, Northern Harrier male, Tree Swallow, Barn Swallow, Bank Swallow, Cliff Swallows, Swainson’s Hawk pair, Yellow-headed Blackbird 50+, Red-winged Blackbird 40+, Brown-headed Cowbirds, Western Meadowlarks, Bobolink male, Savannah Sparrows, Chipping Sparrow 1, Black Necked Stilts, Marsh Wren heard, American Wigeon, Killdeer, American Avocets

At 09:00 we headed back to High River for a Coffee and second breakfast before starting out on the 300km, three hour, drive to Medicine Hat for our nights’ accommodation http://www.guesthouse71.com

The drive produced more Franklin’s Gulls and Swainson’s Hawks and the odd Northern Harrier from the car. Arriving just after lunch we realised there was nothing on the car to say what fuel it took! I did ask the night before and thought the surly attendant said regular so that’s what it got and it kept going. After checking in early at the guesthouse, on a farm with a pond and nice array of birds, we headed down to the north side of Pakowki lake, said in my guide, found online link below, to be a good spot of Longspurs and other short grass prairie species.

http://www.natureline.info/gn/documents/birding_trails/Southeastern%20Birding%20Trail%20Full%20Guide.pdf

 It was another fairly long drive with the usual low speed limits and some roughish roads at the end and took about 90 minutes. Temperatures were up to 17C and light winds. Stopping in the first area of short-grass prairie a singing male Chestnut-collared Longspur was lifer number one and we went on to see about 30 males and females but failed to find any McCown’s in spite of trying hard. It was breezy but in a couple of hours we managed at least two Ferruginous Hawks, multiple Horned Larks, male Northern Harrier, 15 American White Pelicans flying by, several Vesper Sparrows and a Western Willet fly-by. Several Pronghorns were seen from the road but one rather inquisitive male made us keep watching our backs! The usual gangs of Richardson’s Ground Squirrels and Mule Deer completed the mammal list. On the road back a pair of Ferruginous Hawks were seen on a nest by the roadside in a small tree.

Evening meal at The Keg steakhouse on the north side of Medicine Hat. 2550 Box Springs Blvd, Medicine Hat, Alberta T1C 0C8

Back at the digs late evening there were winnowing Wilson’s Snipe overhead, a singing Sora in the little pond along with Common Yellowthroat, a pair of American Wigeon and Blue-winged Teals; American Robins were abundant with Red-winged and Yellow-headed Blackbirds gurgling away and Mourning Doves around the property.

May 21st

After overnight rain the forecast was light winds and a few light showers so we set off south past Cypress Hills towards the US Border at Wild Horse. As we drove south it was fine but cloudy but then as we reached the best areas on the route up from Wild Horse the rain set in and it rained on and off all day to 14:30 and was quite cold in the wind with maximum temperatures of 7C. We drove round the Wild Horse circuit hoping for prairie passerines but the rain and wind were not in our favour. At one point we were accosted by a local red neck on a golf buggy type machine who spun it round on the gravel road in front of us and told us we were lost. I informed him we were not and were just birding to which we got the obligatory stay on the road no trespassing and off he went to suitably amuse himself elsewhere.

At the Guesthouse early and late were Yellow Warbler, Myrtle Warbler, drake Redhead and pair of American Wigeon on the pond, the usual 5+ winnowing Wilson’s Snipe, Red-tailed Hawk, Mourning Doves, Common Grackle and three Wilson’s Phalaropes on the pond in the evening.

Alongside the road to Wild Horse we encountered a pair of Ferruginous Hawks with a nest on the roadside, 5 Turkey Vultures, a pair of Northern Harriers with the male in display plus a second male alongside the road, Lesser Scaup on most of the ponds, a Coyote and several Pronghorns.

On the Wild Horse circuit back to Hway 41 a Great Horned Owl flushed from bushes on the roadside, at least 30 Horned Larks included birds with newly fledged young, Savannah Sparrows, Chipping Sparrows, 10+ Vesper Sparrows and eventually new bird number two Brewer’s Sparrow tied down after a couple of fly offs. Two male Lark Buntings were the first I had seen since Arizona in 1996, raptors included the usual Swainson’s Hawks including one on the deck by the road and Red-tailed Hawk. Three Blue-winged Teal were in a roadside ditch as was a Western Willet while the only large pond held only a single American Avocet. At least 20 Chestnut-collared Longspurs were seen but I was almost giving up hope on McCown’s Longspur when we came across a singing male doing display flights unfortunately not very close to the road and in increasingly heavy rain but lifer number three. Mule Deer and more Pronghorns were logged and food called. A meal at the Elkwater gas station was probably our worst food of the trip but we continued into the village in strong cold winds but it was fine by mid-afternoon. With an obvious fall of migrants alongside the lake we birded there until 17:20 and tallied a nice gang of birds. On the lake were a pair of Caspian Terns and a pair of White-winged Scoter plus 4 Red-necked Grebes including gone bird on a nest and a drake Bufflehead. On the grassy lawns a large flock of Chipping 80+ and Clay-coloured Sparrows 20+ competed for attention with at least 300 Violet-green Swallows over the lake. Birds in the willow scrub on the lake side included several Myrtle and Audubon’s Warblers, two Tennessee Warblers, Yellow Warblers, Wilson’s Warbler male, two male and a female Blackpoll Warblers, Warbling Vireo and a male Rose-breasted Grosbeak plus two male Baltimore Orioles, White-crowned Sparrows, Song Sparrow, Black-capped Chickadee and a number of empids most of which called and looked like Least Flycatchers while one was quite bright greenish in tone with no eye ring.    

Returned to Medicine Hat after a tiring day and ate at Skinnies Smoke House, 2771 Box Springs Blvd NW, Medicine Hat, AB T1C 0C8 --- good food and good value. Night Guesthouse 71

May 22nd

Up at 06:00 leave Guesthouse 71 bright sunny but 7C; soon warms up to 13C calm with lots of insects and first butterflies. Drive back to Elkwater to check the migrant trap again.

Leaving the Guesthouse a Mourning Dove perches in an old implement but a Wilson’s Snipe on a fence post in the morning sun is a real belter photo op. From the road down to Elkwater a male Northern Harrier hunting the road verge is in perfect light but the constraints of being on the wrong side of the car mean it gets away. A Bobolink is on a fence line but the star bird is a Sharp-tailed Grouse on the road verge that allows us to drive past turn around and drive back to a photographable position. First bird at Elkwater Lake is a nice Prairie Merlin flashing by with the two Caspian Terns and six White-winged Scoter still present along with 20 Lesser Scaup, Common Loon and the drake Bufflehead. The Red-necked Grebes are on the lake and a Virginia Rail calls from the marsh. Two Ring-billed Gulls are the first of the trip and a Red-tailed Hawk soars over. The flock of Chipping and Clay-coloured Sparrows are still foraging in the grass and along the lake edge with Song Sparrow and Yellow Warbler on territory. Migrants include male Baltimore Oriole, 3+ Blackpoll Warblers including a singing male, 4 Cedar Waxwings with a pair courtship feeding, Swainson’s Thrush, a confiding Veery, Warbling Vireo at least 10 Myrtle Warblers and a diminutive Least Chipmunk. We then drive out of the park and turn east along Highway 514 a site recommended in the local guide for Mountain Bluebirds. We soon find fence line nest boxes with attendant pairs of Tree Swallows then the first pair of Mountain Bluebirds my first since California in 1997. Eventually see at least 7 birds along with Savannah Sparrows, three Northern Harriers and a Red-shafted Flicker.

Avoiding the gas station cafe, we return to Medicine Hat for lunch at Rick’s All-Day Grill. By afternoon it is getting hotter at 23C. Set off for Lethbridge calling at another area of prairie west of Manyberries where we walk the conservancy grassland. En route pass a Loggerhead Shrike on the wires along with a Western Kingbird, several Swainson’s Hawks and 10+ Northern Harriers. The conservancy grassland is rather disappointing but overhead somewhere is a singing Sprague’s Pipit my 4th lifer. Either this or a second bird then comes down and does a neat fly-by before dropping into the grass with another bird singing in the distance. Several Vesper and Savannah Sparrows are present and a nice Anise Swallowtail butterfly but it’s time to head off on the 2 hour drive to Lethbridge for overnight stay at Holiday Inn Express Hotel and Suites. Least recommended of our accommodations, clean and tidy but in a bit of dodgy area with a lot of druggies around though we walked down to the edge of town after dinner at Sisters Pub and Grill with no problems. The overlook over the valley at the end of the road produced a Swainson’s Hawk along with two notable trip ticks, Collared Dove and Grey Partridge!

May 23rd

Early morning its sunny and 10C at dawn but soon warms up to 21C.

We negotiate our way out of Lethbridge with the inbuilt Sat Nav seemingly via an odd route and head for Writing on Stone PP but first call off at the recommended Tyrrell Lake. This proves to be a good recommendation and call in again on the return journey producing a good list of birds but a large falcon perched on the fence in front of us flies off before I can get a decent look at it and we don’t see Prairie Falcon during the trip. Not a lot of mud around the lake edge but what there was held a good variety of waders including 5 Semi-palmated Sandpipers, 4 Least Sandpipers, a flock of 35 Sanderling that drop in while we are there, 3 Long-billed Dowitchers, 10 American Avocets, Black-necked Stilts, Western Willets feeding and in spectacular display flights overhead and Marbled Godwits also displaying in flight but the real star birds are phalaropes with at least 10 Wilson’s on the water and a spectacular flock of 240 Red-necked Phalaropes spinning around in the lake. Double-crested Cormorant, American White Pelican, multiple ducks including lots of Cinnamon Teal and Blue-winged Teal, Shoveler and Pintail and a very close Swainson’s Hawk form a good photo opportunity. We then head off for Writing on Stone but the Sat Nav says go straight on at Milk River which seems to me to be wrong but it’s been really accurate so far so it may know a short cut! Reaching the US border things look less than correct but it takes us left along the border and roughly east. On a small pond at the turn off at Coutts are a really nice pair of Canvasbacks that produce my best images so far and a guy in a pickup tells me it’s his land and I can walk where I want – such a pleasant change but no time to linger as the Sat Nav tries to take us across several ploughed fields albeit with the statement that maps may be uncertain in this area. After wasting almost two hours we retrace our steps on the correct route to Writing on Stone passing some nice sloughs and ponds with all the usual waterfowl and Wilson’s Phalaropes and American Avocets. Roadside birds include Northern Harriers, Swainson’s Hawks and Red-tailed Hawks. Eventually arriving at Writing on Stone it’s pretty hot and we have no food plus the back is playing up a bit. Merlin, Ferruginous Hawk, House Wren, two Lark Sparrows, Spotted Towhee, Least Flycatcher, Swainson’s Thrush, Violet-green Swallows and singing Spotted Sandpiper on the river bank are the best birds along with the ever-present Western Meadowlarks and Horned Larks. Hungry and hot we retrace our steps to Milk River and get a nice salad at the Sandstone Lounge and Eatery seeing a pair of Western Kingbirds feeding by the visitor centre. Call at Tyrell Lake on return journey then back to Lethbridge and Helen Schuler reserve which is hot and very low in birds but the river has Common Merganser and Bald Eagle with a Lark Sparrow, Mourning Doves and House Finch singing by the hotel. Diner at the Keg steakhouse in Lethbridge where we leave the hotel keys but fortunately the waitress catches us in the parking lot. 

May 24th

Cooler with fresh wind and 11C with rain in the forecast for later. Leave Lethbridge with the usual roadside raptors, Northern Harrier, Swainson’s and Red-tailed Hawks on our short journey to Fort Macleod where we plan a look round the old fort but arrive early so drive over the river to the Wilderness area of old cottonwoods alongside the river. A pair of American Ospreys calling and flying around in the freshening wind are the first of the trip. Other birds include several singing Least Flycatchers, one empid I can identify on song I remember! A singing Black-headed Grosbeak proves to be the only one of the trip, Wilson’s Snipes are displaying, Hairy Woodpecker is a trip tick with two House Wrens in a big fight, Cedar Waxwing, Common Goldeneye, Clay-coloured Sparrows, Yellow Warblers and the ubiquitous Swainson’s Hawk. Look round the historic old fort then an early lunch late breakfast at the Orange Café in Fort Macleod. We are then heading for our next B&B at Dungarvan near Waterton Park via Head Smashed In Buffalo Jump and a Range Road recommended for Baird’s Sparrow and Upland Sandpiper by Ken Orich. Having looked at the map on the iPad the night before I thought I knew where we were going and didn’t set the Sat Nav. Missing the turn to HSIBJ we were heading west on the Crowsnest Highway and it seemed a long way to the desired Range Road but after about 45kms we did indeed come across a RR 273 and turned up it but the desired native long grass prairie didn’t seem to be in good condition. After about 90 minutes driving miles up and down this road and seeing only Savannah, Chipping and Clay-coloured Sparrows plus an Eastern Kingbird I put HSIBJ into the Sat Nav to see that we were in fact 45kms away! Retracing our steps we eventually found the correct Range Road 273 but the growing grey clouds in all directions were becoming a bit foreboding on a gravel road. The roadside fence line produced the usual array of Savannah, Clay-coloured and odd Chipping Sparrows plus Western Meadowlarks but nothing small. I asked Julia to look out for anything perched on a fence post that looked like a wader and shortly afterwards she pointed out an Upland Sandpiper on a post about 500m away in the heat haze! It flew off and that looked like that was that as we turned round and drove back seeing Swainson’s Hawk at the nest and Red-tailed Hawks and Ravens but no more Uplands. One of the great things about having modern technology is that the Sibley Guide on my phone has sound recordings at the touch of a fingertip so we had a quick listen to see what displaying Upland Sandpiper sounds like and then almost in disbelief heard the same song heading our way. Two birds flew past, again not close and landed in some longish grass where another bird was walking about and one did some wing raising display but they remained beyond camera range and coffee at HSIBJ was calling before the rain arrived. It was spitting as we arrived but a quick walk showed the breeding Northern Harriers were again present near the trail and the Yellow-bellied Marmots were in residence but then the thunderstorm hit and we gave up and headed for the car and the drive down to Dungarvan B&B seeing the usual Red-tailed and Swainson’s Hawks en route along with another Common Goldeneye. As we arrived at Dungarvan I realised this was one of the better accommodation choices I had made. The pond in front of the accommodation held a pair of breeding Horned Grebes, pair of Buffleheads, 8 Blue-winged Teal, a pair of Ring-necked Ducks while Cliff Swallows and Tree Swallows were feeding over the water, Yellow and Audubon’s Warblers were in the small willows by the lake side with White-crowned Sparrow and Wilson’s Snipes were displaying. After checking in we drove to Waterton for a meal at Trappers and a quick walk that produced a pair of American Ospreys and Spotted Sandpiper in the now lighter rain.

May 25th

Heavy rain overnight and still dull with low cloud at dawn but calm at 8C warming up to 12C by midday with light rain showers then heavy rain arrived from midday and back problems meant the afternoon spent in car reading and sleeping!  

At Dungarvan early the usual birds were on the pond with a Lincoln’s Sparrow in the bushes. We then headed down to Waterton Park and looked at the marsh on the way in before walking up the Red Rock canyon road still closed to traffic after the 2017 fires. The first marshy area had a pair of Sandhill Cranes and a pair of Common Loons with one bird clearly visible on its nest with another bird calling from the lake the other side of the road. Marsh Wrens were particularly noisy and obvious but in the cool cloudy conditions it was the flock of 300+ Cliff Swallows roosting in the willows that was most impressive. A few Tree Swallows joined the throng and three Trumpeter Swans were on the large lake. Two singing Gray Catbirds, Warbling Vireo and Common Yellowthroat plus Great Blue Heron and displaying Wilson’s Snipes were a precursor to the walk up the canyon road. The air remained heavy with spits and spots of rain but a fine array of flowers in the meadows were a beautiful sight. Birds included singing Vesper Sparrows, White-crowned Sparrows and Clay-coloured Sparrows. Audubon’s Warbler and a singing Ruby-crowned Kinglet were in the burnt areas with an empid possibly Alder Flycatcher on song, Northern Flicker but pride of place went initially to a pair of Mountain Bluebirds feeding in the colourful meadows. Five birds were seen in total but Julia kept saying she could hear hummingbirds! Eventually cloth ears found a miniscule hummer perched atop a 30-foot thin pine tree and it proved to be lifer number five a male Calliope Hummingbird. After this we managed to lock onto at least 10 birds feeding on the pinker flowers mainly the fireweed (Rosebay Willow Herb) but the cloud was getting thicker and the rain drops bigger. Two Pine Siskins, the first of many on the trip on the way back to the car, a fly-by male American Kestrel,  a drumming Ruffed Grouse heard only, Spotted Sandpiper and a pair of Harlequin Ducks on the river by the car park were the last birds before the rain set in and with bad back pains we hit the dry car. After lunch in Waterton at Trappers we looked at the lakes from the vehicle adding Bald Eagle, two Common Mergansers and a pair of Red-naped Sapsuckers. Mammal sightings included 20+ Elk, Columbian Ground Squirrels, Coyote, White-tailed Deer and a number of Beaver Lodges but no actual beavers. Evening meal at Zums in Waterton and back for an early night in the heavy rain that was still falling and forecast for another 24 hours.

May 26th

Torrential rain all night mist low cloud at dawn but the weather forecast showed no rain only 30 miles away so we headed north-east to HSIBJ for another go at Range Road 273 and the Northern Harriers. True to their word the rain cleared as we hit Pincher Creek and it was fine and warm by the time we reached HSIBJ. Heading up RR 273 the fences held the usual mix of Savannah and Clay-coloured Sparrows but no Baird’s, Western Meadowlarks and Brewer’s Blackbirds then something jumped up off the roadside next to my window and perched on an adjacent fence post with its wings raised an UPLAND SANDPIPIER at point black range. Banging the camera on the steering wheel a few shots were fired off before another bird flew in and both of them went into the adjacent field showing brilliantly albeit through the barbed wire fence. After a suitable period of grilling we continued up the road adding the usual Swainson’s Hawks, one on a nest, displaying Western Willet and Marbled Godwit, 5 Spotted Sandpipers on Mud Lake with a pair of Wilson’s Phalaropes on a small pond where a Greater Scaup with two Lessers was the only record of the trip. A singing male Bobolink and Eastern Kingbird rounded off a good morning and we were off to HSIBJ for a look round the centre and walk along the trail outside where our only Say’s Phoebe was singing with a Spotted Towhee, Gray Catbird and the Northern Harriers were sky dancing and performing some superb fly-bys albeit in what was  now rather bright light. The Yellow-bellied Marmots showed well. We then headed back to the B&B via Waterton Reservoir where the American Osprey nest by the dam delivered a nice pair of calling birds and the roadside pools held the usual mix of waterfowl plus a few Ruddy Ducks. At the B&B I had an hour round the pond photographing the grebes and the 6+ Audubon’s Warblers that were flycatching over the water. A Belted Kingfisher dropped in and a Taiga Merlin perched in the tree by the house. A drumming Ruffed Grouse in the adjacent wood defeated our best efforts to see it but Wilson’s Snipe were easier around the pond and Sandhill Cranes could be heard calling in the next valley. We returned to Waterton for a meal at Trappers but had a quick walk round the town first turning up our first three Rufous Hummingbirds of the trip on a feeder and our only White-throated Sparrow with 4 White-crowned Sparrows on the grass by the main street and a pair of Harlequins in the drainage channel from the waterfall and Red Squirrel. As we left the park a Red-naped Sapsucker was in the trees by the first lake.

May 27th

A cloudy start to the day with light rain but calm at Dungarvan a quick look around the property reveals that the drumming Ruffed Grouse is still proving elusive, the Belted Kingfisher returns, there is an Eastern Kingbird and Savannah Sparrow present and a Goshawk flies by probably my first record in Canada. Drive down to the marsh and lake near the entrance to Waterton Park for a last quick look and have 3 Sandhill Cranes en route, American Wigeon on the lake along with 30 American Coots that appeared to be new in, Ring-necked Ducks, 3 American Black Terns, Ruddy Duck, Bald Eagle and flush a Virginia Rail from the grass by the side of the car park. The rain soon cleared but with a long drive in prospect today we set off north on the 23 towards Canmore. From the road American Kestrel Merlin, Swainson’s Hawk and Red-tailed Hawks plus the usual variety of waterfowl on roadside ponds then stop off at the Bar U ranch historic site for lunch and a walk around. Arriving Canmore late afternoon we walk the Bow Valley trail in town in increasingly high temperatures of 21C and get Common Yellowthroat, a singing Sora in the marsh, Violet-green Swallows and two Myrtle Warblers but the highlight is a Boreal Chickadee. After dinner at the Rose and Crown we drive up the Spray Lakes road but it is in terrible condition after the winter snow and its very slow going with a lack of the hope for mammals and no Moose but four Snowshoe Hares feeding on the road are compensation and at the Kananaskis end a Coyote is wandering around on the roadside. A long drive back to the Best Western Pocaterra Inn where we are staying, well recommended Hotel.

May 28th

The weather forecast for today is hot and sunny all day. A drive up the Bow Valley Parkway is almost totally unproductive with a road crossing Gray Jay the only bird but en route to our next digs near Golden we stop off at Yoho Park Visitor centre and the car park has a large flock of feeding Pine Siskins but also on the grass under the trees are two White-winged Crossbills with others heard in the trees but they all fly off before good images can be taken. We then do the circular walk around Emerald Lake in increasing heat but pick up a decent list of birds including; 6 Spotted Sandpipers presumably breeding, 20+ Audubon’s Warblers in song, a singing Hermit Thrush the only one of the trip, Chipping and Lincoln’s Sparrows in song, Least Flycatcher and another singing empid in a clearing in the young pines that escapes detection, a drake and three duck Surf Scoters on the lake seem a little out of place, two male Common Loons have an extended fight involving wing paddling after each other around the lake for over 15 minutes to the entertainment of canoeists, Golden-crowned and Ruby-crowned Kinglets in song, a singing male Blackpoll Warbler, a Buff-bellied Pipit flew north calling and Violet-green Swallows were collecting nest material in the gardens of the houses. A Least Chipmunk was entertaining while a Golden-mantled Ground squirrel was oddly the only one we say. Lunch at the recommended Truffle Pigs Bistro in Field township with temperatures now at 30C a local Ginger Ale with ice was much appreciated. We then drove on to our base for the next three nights at El Nido Country Inn near Golden. Off the beaten track and set in the edge of the woods it was clear this was a birdy spot but it was also rich in mosquitos in the evening and early mornings. A quick look around revealed at least 5 Rufous Hummingbirds on the house feeders with Violet-green Swallows and Tree Swallows plus several Columbian Ground Squirrels but Susan and Maurizio add valuable news and after a meal at Wolf’s Den, another good recommendation, we drove up the road to Kicking Horse Wilderness centre and came across Eastern Kingbird but more importantly a female Black Bear with three small cubs on the roadside then another female with two bigger cubs and two more presumably 2cy bears all within 2kms of road a dramatic evening.

May 29th

Early morning around El Nido with a temperature of 7C. An early walk round the meadows and woodland edges produces at least 8 Hammond’s Flycatchers in song, Savannah Sparrows on territory in the meadow, at least 50 Pine Siskins around the garden feeders along with Steller’s Jays, Lincoln’s Sparrow in song and Rufous Hummingbirds. Two birds feeding quietly low in a spruce turn out to be fledged juvenile White-winged Crossbills. In the garden first encounter with some confusing Cassin’s / Purple Finches. We then plan on a trip to Revelstoke Park and hopefully a drive up to the Alpine Meadows along the 26kms long Parkway trail but I have reservations. As we set off down the TransCanada Highway 1 it’s a pleasant 7C but soon rises to 23C. The TransCanada is under reconstruction over long sections with multiple speed restrictions and hold ups meaning the 90-minute trip takes over 2 hours but we eventually arrive at the desired Skunk cabbage trail and read on the display about Mac the MacGillivray’s Warbler banded there that had returned to his territory for several years; this was a challenge so listen to the song on the Sibley app and immediately there is one singing but scanning the low vegetation for ages reveals no bird but they are known to be skulkers then Jude sees on singing from 25 feet up in a tree! Good views are had but images distant and in the growing heat are just record shots. Later in the afternoon I get close views of one feeding low down in the vegetation by the start of the trail. Lifer number six. Also on the trail we encounter singing American Redstarts, Northern Waterthrushes, always surprising to see then singing from high up in trees, Song Sparrows, Common Yellowthroat, 10 Cedar Waxwings, Rufous Hummingbird and a drake Harlequin Duck in the river. The first ode is a four-spotted chaser / skimmer. With temperatures rising to 25C we head into Revelstoke for lunch at Emos then drive to the park where we are told the road is only open to Km 12 way short of any alpine habitat but we have park passes so drive up anyway but the road stops well down in the forest and in the increasing heat it is pretty bird free with Varied Thrush heard only, Bald Eagle and Audubon’s Warblers in song plus the usual Pine Siskins. Disappointed by the lack of Alpine habitat we start the journey back to El Nido through the road works with temperatures rising to 32C its better being in the vehicle than outside. Back at Golden we eat at Wolf’s Den and then have another trip up the road to Kicking Horse Wilderness area and encounter the Black Bears again with the three small cubs climbing up a roadside tree an amazing sight. Mosquitos put me off a late evening session around the digs.

May 30th

The weather forecast is for another very hot day but they get is seriously wrong. At El Nido early morning a singing Orange-crowned Warbler is the first of the trip but I may have overlooked the song, Lincoln’s Sparrow and Rufous Hummingbirds plus a family of Dark-eyed Juncos are all at the feeders but also at least five different finches one of which appears to be a male Cassin’s Finch and a brown singing male also sounds like a Cassin’s but a male on the feeders appears to be a Purple Finch as does a female. With the forecast heat we drive south from Golden down the Columbia wetlands stopping at anywhere with access points. Bald Eagles, several pairs of American Ospreys nesting on poles on the roadsides and Turkey Vultures are roadside birds along with some Wild Turkeys but I almost miss a Ruffed Grouse standing on the grass verge and make a hash of reversing as it flushes into the nearby vegetation. A grey morph male its visible and audible walking about under the trees but in dense cover and no photos are possible. It is not hot in fact temperatures are hovering around 14C far from the 26C forecast. The various lakes along the wetlands produce out first Wood Ducks and Hooded Mergansers, Spotted Sandpipers, various other wildfowl including Trumpeter Swans with young and a Common Loon with a chick on its back while passerines include our first Northern Rough-winged Swallows, Eastern Kingbirds nest building and one landing on the back of a passing Raven plus singing Least Flycatchers and another empid which I again fail to ID. Odes on the valley include an Emerald which seems to be either Muskeg or Whitehouses and a Whiteface. Temperatures rise to 22C by early afternoon but with showers when we take the 93 road through Kootenay National Park but there are no stopping signs, bears on roadside, we see none and most of the trails and car parks are closed after wildfires in recent years so a single Audubon’s Warbler and a singing Chipping Sparrow are a rather poor reward for a long drive. We return to Field for lunch at Truffle Pigs then head back to Golden.

May 31st

It starts out at 12C but warms up during the day. Around the B&B before we leave are two male and 3 female immature Cassin’s Finches and a male Purple Finch, Rufous Hummingbirds and a Black-chinned Hummingbird that lands on the feeder briefly then zooms off without showing its true colours. We drive to the Lake Louise Gondola where we are somewhat ripped off to the cost of $75 being told there is a trail at the top that is walkable with lots of birds; in fact you can only walk about 100m in an area with a high electric fence around it to keep out bears! We see a couple of Audubon’s Warblers and a Snowshoe Hare and then as we get off at the bottom a Buff-bellied Pipit with a leg injury is walking about on the snow at the bottom of the lift. Brunch at Lake Louise then we stop briefly at Vermillion Lakes but as its hot there are way too many people so go to Jack Peak where its also busy and a Boreal Chickadee plus Audubon’s Warbler are the only birds of note. With temperatures rising to 23C the weather takes a turn for the worse with thunderstorms arriving mid-afternoon so we head to our Hotel, the Best Western Pocaterra Plus at Canmore and chill until dinner at nearby Craig’s. After dinner we drive east and then down HWay 40 down the Kananaskis Trail then back along the Spray Lakes road. Weather is still a bit iffy with rain hovering and lots of cloud. The road is generally a bit disappointing but a pair of Barrow’s Goldeneye on one of the upper lakes are our first of the trip and the finale comes when a Grizzly is spotted feeding on the roadside. It allows a close approach and continues feeding as we drive off for a rather long trawl back to Canmore.

June 1st

After a tiring trip with a lot of driving the recent heat we have a bit of a lie in before the overnight flight back to Heathrow and its maybe a mistake. Its sunny and 15C by the time we head off towards Cochraine that I have sussed out from the net has a marsh where people see Le Conte’s Sparrow and Nelson’s Sharp-tailed Sparrow. We find the area up Wild Horse Road but apart from several Wilson’s Phalaropes and displaying Wilson’s Snipe the only sparrows appear to be Savannahs and Clay-coloured. We bump into the first birders we have seen in two weeks the lady being from Surrey? and her husband from Scotland though they have lived locally for 40+ years. They inform us the sparrows have been singing earlier in the day before it was 23C and earlier in the spring and they have been listening to a singing Yellow Rail plus some valuable information on sites at Waterton where I apparently missed Lazuli Bunting! Oh well another time and a Cooper’s Hawk completes the trip list after which we drive further up the road and see a few Mountain Bluebirds on the roadside fences then we pack up and head for the airport which we manage to negotiate easily though be warned until you can check in there is nowhere to eat at Calgary departures so don’t arrive too early like we did.

Overnight flight from Calgary with BA to Heathrow Terminal 5 leaves almost on time at 20:40 and gets in on time at 12:15; with temperatures of 27C its not pleasant crawling to the M1 but it’s raining by the time we reach Grantham up the A1 and we are back home by 17:30.

 Additional species probably not mentioned in the daily logs:

 Brewers Blackbirds

Black billed Magpie

Raven 

American Crow 

Western Meadowlark 

American Robin 

Shoveler 

Pintail 

Bank Swallow 

Barn Swallow 

Black capped chickadee 

House Sparrow Canmore 

Butterflies: 

Mourning Cloak

Satyr Comma

Anise Swallowtail 

? Sulphur

Various blues 

Canadian Tiger Swallowtail

Odes

Blue damsels

Emerald

Four spotted Chaser / Skimmer

White face ?  

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Calgary to Vancouver August 2007